The south (Ushuaia) and back up again…

Heading down to Ushuia: I am becoming entranced by the cloud formations.... it is amazing what time allows you to appreciate

At last I feel that I am riding fit and the body doesn’t ache as much from being battered in the wind and from fighting the cold. The scenery has been so so beautiful and it has been quite something experiencing it with the ice cold weather. The coldest we got to was 4 degrees Celsius which was really nippy. My fingers and toes despite the gloves, thick socks and riding boots felt as if they were ice blocks!!!!

On the road down south

The most challenging times so far have been when the bike gives us issues. We were on a ferry and we had to start the bike to get it off and it wouldn’t start. Quite something trying to explain this in Spanish to the ferry operators as they are trying to load and off load massive busses carrying hundreds of tourists. Probably the most challenging part for me was getting used to the rippio (dirt road) again. I didn’t realise how scared I was until we had gotten going but after the first 30km it was just great fun getting bounced up and down on the corrugations. I battle with loose stones as the back wheel keeps sliding to the left and right and it feels as if I am riding on a very slippery surface.

The pass down to Ushuaia was magnificent. The night before it had been snowing so the mountain tops were white white. We even managed to stop near the top and we made a few snowballs which was really fun.

Ushuaia was a little disappointing. It felt strange arriving in the middle of a journey as it is usually the end point for most trips. We arrived at the end of the Antarctica season and there were only one or two boats that were still heading out. We thought about going on a trip but were told that the weather is pretty bad at this time and that most of the wildlife is better seen in the peak seasons.  So we will have to come back soon for this adventure at the right time of the year. Guess one can’t always do everything.

Tierra del Fiego

Tierro del Fuego sunset

Luckily the timing was right for the Tiero Del Fuego National Park. Apparently this is one of the most beautiful times to see it as it is heading into autumn and the reds and oranges are spectacular. We had a day in the park which was quite something. Andrew was very keen to camp but it was just way too cold for me to even contemplate that.

Andrew's third plate of Parrilla

We did find an excellent parrila (restaurant where they grill lots of meat and it is eat as much as you can) and Andrew had three plates of lamb which filled his stomach. He was a very happy husband.

So after a few days in Ushuia we started our journey back up again. On the way down we had driven over the Rio Grande river. When we got to the town of Rio Grande we saw a very big statue of a fish. Now if one puts two and two together that means……..good fishing!!!!!

And so here we are fishing the best river for sea trout. I say “we” are fishing but Andrew is doing the hard work and I am keeping warm and playing photographer again. (Vikki – I know you would probably be fishing but this is even colder than the fishing on the North Island… and being warm with a good cup of delicious coffee watching Andrew cast is so tempting)

Alex…. you would love this place. The only way to fish here is to stay at one of the ultra exclusive estancias. White couches, four poster beds, fluffy dressing gowns, four course meals…. I think I am in heaven…..

Categories: Diary | 7 Comments

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7 thoughts on “The south (Ushuaia) and back up again…

  1. Rosemary

    Thanks for all the news and just love the beautiful photographs – what an amazing trip you are having. Look forward to hearing from you again soon. Keep warm and safe and enjoy every moment! Rose x

  2. Darren

    Great blog. Reading this and makes me want to do a bike tour some day!

    (we met in Ukraine at Natalia’s wedding)

  3. Vikki

    ha ha – I am delighted, Cath – that you think me such a fisherman…I hate to ruin your lovely image of me – but i have yet to go fishing – so may have been doing just the same as you – taking the pics and making coffee for icy fingers!!
    Sounds like you guys are on an adventure of note and I love the honest feedback and photos are amazing!!
    Much love,

  4. Alex Cluver

    OMG – sounds like my kind of place 🙂 and i am with you – photographs and coffee is the way to enjoy these surrounds – leave the fisihing to the boys 🙂 Keep enjoying!

  5. Andy Cluver

    Latest on the BMW fuel pump, is that it will leave SA this week with an SAA pilot, who will deliver it to Sundance Tours (Allan) in Buenos Aires .
    Allan will then mak a plan to get it to you at a convenient place on the trip .
    I will keep you updated !

    Dad .

  6. Trevor

    Hi A & C

    Once again your trip sound as if it has been full of everything and then i have to hear about the excellent fishing!!! Very jealous…… Andrew hope you caught some fish.

    Hope you both are still enjoying the trip and experiencing it to the full.

    All the best

    Trevor, Bronwynne (and Kaiden)

  7. jakub

    Tell Andrew that if he carries on eating so many South American sheep even the 1200 wont make it ! Beautiful scenery !

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